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THE UNDERBELLY

THE UNDERBELLY is a Couture 2024 collection which explores themes of dissection and deconstruction. My research  investigates dissection of the body as well as the construction and unseen structures of bespoke tailoring and couture fashion. My collection highlights craftsmanship to reject the fashion industry  increasing consumption culture which has lead to a loss of appreciation of skill and craftsmanship involved in fashion.

 

THE UNDERBELLY’s design decisions and methods of manufacture have been informed by the craftsmanship and construction techniques used in couture and bespoke tailoring. Through utilising textiles that often go unseen, and their importance unacknowledged, in combination with other design decisions the collection takes  on a deconstructed approach and displays this concept. The inside of the body has informed close fitting and harshly tailored silhouette and artist research has then been combine with couture draping techniques to bring the fleshy inside of the body out.  

Concept

Graduate collection, Couture, 2024

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 Research

The UNDERBELLY was born from my research into the plots and themes of Tim Burton’s (2007) musical horror ‘Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street’, a movie adaptation of ‘The String of Pearls: A Domestic Romance’ (1845-46). I analysed the plot and themes of each, paying particular attention to the social and historical context. From here, I investigated the dissection of the body after death, body snatching and the impact of the 1832 Anatomy act, highlighting the co-modification of the human body both past and present.

 

In relation to fashion, I dissected not only the physical garments but the industry itself. Revealing the lose of appreciation of skill, apparent in our mistreatment of workers and high consumption rate. I researched deconstructed fashion, particularly through the eyes of Martin Margiela, as it highlights the skills of a collective group of people, challenges notions of beauty while also rethinking the function and meaning of the garment, which I believe can challenge our views around consumption. As such I explored methods of construction and manufacturing, informed by the craftsmanship and construction techniques used in couture and bespoke tailoring. Through utilising textiles that often go unseen, and their importance unacknowledged, in combination with other design decisions the collection takes on a deconstructed approach to display this concept.

Margarita Kamilkova - Look 2.JPG

Draping

Margarita Kamilkova - Look 5.2.JPG

Tailoring

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Lauren Hyde - Margarita Kamilkova - Look 1.JPG
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Line-up

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Lookbook

Margarita Kamilkova - Look 4.JPG

Contact

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Based in Edinburgh and London

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